Free Motion Quilting: Part One

04. September 2008 · Write a comment · Categories: Uncategorized · Tags: , , , ,

I’ve been lurking around the Sew, Mama, Sew forum for a few weeks now and I gotta tell you: I love that place. I like having a venue where I can share what I know about sewing and offer up some tips and words of wisdom to help people through their frustrations. I had to learn what I know about the basics from a really mean teacher in college who had absolutely no sense of humor. I wish I would have known the future me–she’s much more patient and amusing than old Not-Sewing-With-Nancy-Nancy.

After receiving a couple of wonderful emails with some great questions, I have decided to share what I know about Free Motion Quilting. This is a technique that I attempted to learn for years and years and years on my own and I finally broke down and took a class on the subject because my attempts were making me want to throw my sewing machine on the ground and hit it with a bat.

For this first leg, let’s just start with some basic advice that I have not found in any book on the subject:

  • The absolute key to success in Free Motion Quilting is to have a sewing platform. If you are lucky enough to have a cabinet that your machine sits in and provides this workspace then good for you. It is impossible to do this technique without a platform. Believe me, I’ve tried. A lot. You can buy a platform that is custom fitted to your machine or if you are willing to shell out a hundred bucks or you can do it yourself for about eight bucks with a little ingenuity and some carpentry skills.

My homemade sewing platform.

  • Don’t use cheap thread. I haven’t found a book yet that will tell you that Coats and Clark is cheap thread. It is. Invest in the spendier stuff because it really does perform better and will give you better results. You will experience far less breakage–some machines are more temperamental about this than others. I had a constant problem with thread breaking until I learned that my older Kenmore is one of the models that was built by Janome and Janome machines are notoriously picky about what kind of thread they like. Since I switched over to higher quality thread I have had no more problems and that is totally worth an extra buck to me.
  • Start with cursive “l”s and “e”s before you move onto fancier stuff. It’s hard to draw a flower if you haven’t practiced curves a billion times first.
  • There will be a bit of goofiness with the bottom tension (just a bit) when you do curves. Some machines perform better than others. My machine (another Janome trait) tightens up on curves and I have to really slow down and concentrate on what I’m doing to keep my stitching even. Next time I get my machine tuned up (do this religiously) I will make sure that they have adjusted this a bit better for me.
  • Get yourself a pair of Machingers gloves. I am not a gadgety girl but these are worth every penny and I would buy them again in a heartbeat. They are gloves with latex fingertips which really grip onto the fabric and make moving it around a breeze. The teacher in our quilting class let me borrow hers and I immediately bought a pair as soon as the class was finished.

This information is meant to supplement what you can easily find in any book about Free Motion Quilting. These are just the “aha!” tips that I learned in our class that have really made machine quilting work for me.

Back to lurking around on Sew, Mama, Sew…

Tutorial 2: Making Your Own Cloth Diapers (Cutting)

10. August 2008 · 1 comment · Categories: Uncategorized · Tags: , , , ,

The Boy in his new drawers.

In this post, I’ll be explaining how to cut the diapers. In the interest of saving some confusion, the actual sewing instructions are posted as Part 3. The patterns are now available in The Store for purchase if you are not interested in drafting your own pattern for these diapers.

Here we go!

Cutting the Diapers

This pattern was created with the use of repurposed materials in mind. A full size fitted flannel sheet (which I found at a thrift store for $2) and one or two regular size towels will yield about 10 medium sized diapers.

Step One: Prepare the fabric by prewashing and pressing. Sanitize sheets and towels if necessary by adding a bit of Bac-Out or bleach to the water.

Step Two: If using a fitted sheet, cut off the elastic from the edging and cut the corner seams so that the sheet lies flat. (The sheet is the purple fabric…don’t you love the kooky vintage fabric background? Yard sale.)

Step Three: Fold the fabric in half or in quarters–whichever way works best for you and will give you the most diapers from your sheet.

Step Four: Lay the diaper pattern on top of the fabric and cut around it. Now don’t get all excited and cut the pattern into bits no matter how much fun you think it might be. Each diaper will require two pieces of fabric.

Time Saver: As you cut out a couple of diapers, use the pieces to lay out where your next diapers will be cut. The fabric will just kind of stick there so you will not need to use pins (that’s why the patterns available in The Store are made from fabric rather than paper). This also makes it really easy to visually determine how to get the most diapers out of your fabric.

Step Five: To cut the inserts, lay the insert pattern on top of one of the towels and cut around it. It is up to you to determine how many layers of absorbency you would like. For daytime use for the average wetter, one layer should suffice. For nighttime use or for a heavy wetter, at least two layers should be used. Remember that multiple layers will create bulk.

Well, that wasn’t so bad now was it? To clarify, here are your options with the diapers:

That should cover it. Please feel free to contact me if you run into any trouble or need further clarification!

Tutorial 1: Making Your Own Cloth Diapers (Drafting the Pattern)

06. August 2008 · 4 comments · Categories: Uncategorized · Tags: , , ,

There is such a learning curve to babies. As the boy grows, I keep discovering all of these tricks and tools that almost make me want to have another baby just so I can use them on the new kid from the get-go. That’s how I feel about these handmade cloth diapers.

These are what our grannies used to make for their babies–a tried and true, simple, inexpensive, ecological way of diapering your tots. Unlike prefolds (which seem to be the norm these days), these diapers are slim and form-fitting while still being absorbent. This tutorial is divided into three parts: Part One consists of the directions for drafting the diapers, Part Two explains the cutting procedure, and Part 3 details the sewing process.

The following pattern is for a medium sized diaper.  These are sized to get a whole lot of use from wee to mammoth so you probably won’t have to make a new batch very often. The mediums appear to fit 15-30 pounds pretty comfortably.  To make size small, subtract two or three inches from the height and eyeball the shape.  To make size large, add two or three inches to the length and widen the bum section of the diaper a bit.

After putting these into use for some time, it is advisable to line the diaper with absorbent material (like hemp fleece, sections cut from an old towel, multiple layers of flannel, or those super-absorbent towels that are available in automotive stores).

Supplies

In addition to your functional sewing machine, scissors, and ironing equipment you will need:

  • a tape measure
  • a straight edge (a rectangular ruler that is used with a rotary mat works best)
  • old flannel sheets
  • an old towel or two
  • a marker
  • a serger is helpful but not necessary
  • one large sheet of paper at least 20″x20″ (a piece of newsprint will work great)
  • one regular sized piece of paper at least 10″x7″


Part One: Drafting the Pattern

Take a deep breath. This will be much less painful than you think.

Step 1: Using the marker and your straight edge, draw a line down the center of your large piece of paper measuring 17 inches. This is the center of your diaper lengthwise.

Step 2: Mark and number each inch along the line. You will use these points as coordinates for the sides of the diaper.

Step 3: Mark both the top/front edge and the bottom/back edge of the diaper. For the top/front edge of the diaper, measure 6 1/2 inches from the center on each side. This line will total 13 inches. For the bottom/back edge, measure 9 1/2 inches from the center on each side. This line will total 19 inches. So far so good!!

Step 4: Ok, this part is tricky to describe. You will be using the marks on the center line to measure out and mark points on one side of the diaper. You may of course do this on both sides, but the plan is to mark the dots, connect the dots, fold the diaper down the center line, and use that to mark the other side. Got it? You guys are smart, hang in there.

Alright, shoulders back, deep breath, now go!

From each point along the center line of the diaper, mark:

  • Point 1–this is already a part of your top/front edge. If you were to mark a point here it would be at 6 1/2″ (where the line ends).
  • Point 2–6 1/2″
  • Point 3–6 1/4″
  • Point 4–4 1/4″
  • Point 5–4″
  • Point 6–4″
  • Point 7–4″
  • Point 8–4 1/4″
  • Point 9–4 1/2″
  • Point 10–4 3/4″
  • Point 11–5 1/4″
  • Point 12–5 3/4″
  • Point 13–7″
  • Point 14–8 3/4″
  • Point 15–9 1/2″
  • Point 16–9 1/2″
  • Point 17–9 1/2″
  • Point 18–This is part of the line for the bottom/back edge of the diaper, measuring 9 1/2″ from the center on one side.

Now connect the dots and remember that you’re making a diaper, not an atom bomb. This does not have to be super precise. The scary precise parts are all finished now. Feel better?

Step Five: Cut along the lines…

Step Six: Fold the diaper in half along the center line. You can trace along the edge of the finished side and then cut, or if you are feeling cocky and brave just go ahead and cut the other side out using the finished curve as your guide.

Well, looky there. You did it. Wooo!

But you’re not quite finished yet, sister. Hold onto your pants a minute.

In order for the diapers to be absorbent, they’re going to need some lining. This part is easy.

Step Seven: Draw a rectangle measuring 10″x7″. Cut it out and round off the corners so that it resembles the above picture. Easy peasy.

I didn’t want to overwhelm you by including the directions for cutting and sewing the diaper with these instructions, so look for that post in a couple of days. And congratulations–you just drafted your very own pattern!

For those of you with cottage industries, you may use this pattern to sell diapers as long as you provide a link to www.thepeacefulpeacock.com.

Tutorial: How to Make a Simple Apron from a Repurposed Skirt

01. August 2008 · 2 comments · Categories: Uncategorized · Tags: , , , , , ,

I was a little tired when I did this so prepare yourselves; at some point it might really hurt your eyes. There are lots of good little tips in here though so maybe put on some sunglasses or something. And if you have a hangover I would advise you to come back another day because this one might end up on a sewing version of What Not to Crochet.

Ok, here we go. Brace yourselves.

In addition to your functional sewing machine, iron, thread and scissors, you will need:

  • A funky old skirt
  • Bias tape (the amount depends on the length and width of your apron)

Any old thing that will cover the edges will do…hem tape, wide bias tape folded in half lengthwise and ironed, double fold bias tape. I had some hot pink bias tape already made up so I opted to use that. It’s also shiny…it was very early and somehow I thought it might look nice with that green lacy skirt that Madonna would have proudly worn in the “Holiday” era.

On a positive note, it will be very easy for you to see what I am doing in the pictures. The ones that aren’t blurry anyway.

Prep

So go ahead and cut up the skirt into whatever size apron works for you. I will also be covering how to gather fabric (oh, yes I did) so go ahead and cut it on the wide side if you’re planning on giving that a shot. Oh, whoops…should have warned you about the pink and orange plaid that was coming up. It’s actually a really cool vintage wool that I found at a yard sale and apparently was just a bit too eager to show off.

Press the “apron” in order to make applying the bias tape a breeze. The secret to quality sewing is to iron, iron, iron. It will make the difference between a crappy homemade project and a crisp, professional result. Just be careful not to turn the iron up too high and melt green ribbon onto the plate. If the skirt you have chosen has embellishments, iron the backside of the fabric.

Gathering the Top Edge

With your machine set on the basting stitch (the veeeeerrrrry loooongest one), stitch a straight line about 1/4″ away from the edge of the top of your apron. Be sure to leave a nice long tail of thread and do not backstitch. You always want to sew two stitches close to each other (NOT overlapping at all) just in case one of your thread breaks from your giddiness. These stitches will be easily removed with a seam ripper when the bias tape has been applied so don’t worry about the exact placement.

There will be four tails of thread hanging from the edge of the apron: two on the top and two on the bottom. It doesn’t matter which two you choose to pull as long as they are both on the same side.

Thankfully this is actually one of the good pictures so it should be pretty clear to see what I mean.

Pull the threads and evenly gather the fabric until you reach the desired width for your apron.

Tie the ends of the thread off into a simple knot in order to keep the gathers from liberating themselves. They are very sneaky.

Applying the Bias Tape

With the bias tape folded around the edge of the fabric on one side of the apron, you will want to start your seam about 1/2″ from the top. Sew a couple of stitches and then backstitch to secure the bias tape. This will ensure that the edge of the whole deal doesn’t get sucked down into the undercarriage and cause a big snarl of thread and/or a broken needle. Continue stitching, attaching the bias tape first to one side, continuing across the bottom of the apron, and coming back up the opposite side. Do not attach the bias tape to the top of the apron yet because that is covered in the next step.

Determine the length of the ties for your apron. I like nice long ties so I measured each length at 26 inches. This is in addition to the actual width of the apron (21″), making the the full length of the top bias tape 73 inches.

To easily find the center points, just fold each item in half. Pin the centers together and then continue to pin to each edge. Or just eyeball it and forgo the pins, you daredevil.

Go ahead and sew along the edge of the bias tape, backtacking at the stress points (where the edges meet).

And finally, to clean up your basting stitches simply pick apart a few stitches with the seam ripper. These stitches are so long that they should come out very easily.

And since the trim, the lace, and the hot pink shiny edging just wasn’t enough for me, I also applied a smattering of lovely crocheted flowers all over the apron to embellish it just a bit more. I’m embarrassed to even show the gal from Ireland who makes these. You can also happily purchase your own from her Etsy shop.

And the back:

I’m off to track down some lace fingerless gloves, one large earring, and some ankle boots with a one inch heel. Get into the Groove, yo.

We're Having One of THOSE Days…

31. July 2008 · Write a comment · Categories: Uncategorized · Tags: , , , ,

So the baby is teething, mama’s strained from the Fourteen Days of Madness, the fuel pump in our car has decided that it’s had enough, and the neighbor’s cat just figured out how to get into our house to visit with us.

Which is a pretty big concern because Kyle, our anti-social parakeet, just decided that it’s really fun to fly around the house to explore and bang into things.

All of this and not an ounce of chocolate in the entire house. Crap.

Kind of like that scene from ET, isn’t it? Try to ignore the freaky plastic bunny.

Needless to say he is on lockdown until we do a little trimming of the flight feathers. We’ve been waiting for him to realize that birds around here don’t have to live behind locked doors, so it’s a very happy day to see him begin to accept his new environment. Finally. Like everything, time is the answer. And a bit of kindheartedness and patience goes quite a ways of course. We almost ended up rescuing a Macaw too but thankfully there is someone who is an even bigger softie than the people who live in this house. Whew.

We have once again reaffirmed our decision hold out for an African Grey and the little guy will find us when the time is right.

Anyhoo, I have the tutorial ready for “How to Make a Simple Apron from a Repurposed Skirt” that will be posted bright and early tomorrow morning.

Learn how you too can resemble Madonna, circa 1983, in this lovely apron.

For now I have dosed the boy with some of this very orange, very berry flavored magic potion:

and I’m putting my Material Girl Apron on to make some of these little babies, which were obviously created for days like this:

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Chocolate Crinkle Cookies

1 cup cocoa (ok, I found some chocolate in the house)

1/2 cup safflower oil (I used butter)

2 cups sugar

4 eggs

2 cups flour

2 tsp baking powder

2 tsp vanilla

1/2 tsp salt

Cream sugar and oil, mix in cocoa. Blend in eggs, one at a time. Add flour, baking powder, vanilla, and salt. Chill dough for a couple of hours. Spoon onto cookie sheet, press into disks, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bake at 350 degrees for six minutes, rotate pan and bake for an additional 4 minutes.

(Watch the baking time on these–we’re at high altitude and use a convection oven.)

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Kind of like a brownie did it with a cookie. All I know is that if there is a heaven these are there in abundance.

Oh yeah, and I’ve decided to give away one of the baby carriers that is made during the Fourteen Days of Madness. I’ll post some details later after I’ve had some cookies. And maybe a beer.