Here are the actual sewing instructions for the diapers. If you would like to draft a pattern, you will find my tutorial here, and if you would like to see instructions for cutting the fabric then check here. You can easily make these diapers using a serger or a standard sewing machine, instructions for both are included in this tutorial.

A little tip: If you are making the diapers for a girl, place the insert toward the center of the diaper…

…and if you are making the diapers for a boy, place the insert toward the front of the diaper. A simple matter of anatomy, folks.

Constructing the Diapers with a Serger

Step One: Sandwich the insert(s) between the two layers of flannel, pin the insert in place, and serge around all edges.

A little tip: Rather than trying to follow the curve, you can just serge off…

…and start a new path where you left off. Remember: your kid is going to poop in these, not graduate college in them. Hopefully. Anyway, they don’t have to be perfect so don’t stress about it.

Step Two: Now move yourself on over to your regular sewing machine. You are going to stay-stitch the inserts in place so that they do not end up in a wadded ball in the corner of the diaper when you wash it. Don’t ask me how I know that.

You will be able to feel it with your finger to guide you. Sew around the entire insert.

All done!

Constructing the Diaper with a Sewing Machine

Step One: Place the insert on the wrong side of one of the pieces of the flannel diaper. Sew in place using a 1/4″ or 1/2″ seam. If you are using two layers of insert, apply one to the wrong side of each flannel piece.

It should look like this.

Step Two: With right sides together, sew the two pieces of flannel together with a 1/4″ seam. It’s easy to gauge a 1/4″ seam because it’s exactly how wide the point to the edge of the foot is on the machine. You can use a larger seam allowance but keep in mind that it will create a smaller diaper.

Be sure to leave a four inch opening so that you can turn the diaper right side out.

Step Three: Turn the diaper right side out and press, folding the open edges under so that the folded edges match up with the seam.

Step Four: Topstitch around the entire diaper using a 1/4″ seam. Make sure that the open edges are secured into place with this stitch.

A little tip: How to sew a curve with a sewing machine:

Topstitch up until 1/4″ inch away from the edge of the curve…

…pick up your presser foot with the needle securely embedded in the fabric and rotate so that everything is heading in the right direction…

…return the presser foot back into position and continue topstitching.

All done!!

To clarify, here are your other options with making these cloth diapers:

Now go make some nappies.

I was a little tired when I did this so prepare yourselves; at some point it might really hurt your eyes. There are lots of good little tips in here though so maybe put on some sunglasses or something. And if you have a hangover I would advise you to come back another day because this one might end up on a sewing version of What Not to Crochet.

Ok, here we go. Brace yourselves.

In addition to your functional sewing machine, iron, thread and scissors, you will need:

  • A funky old skirt
  • Bias tape (the amount depends on the length and width of your apron)

Any old thing that will cover the edges will do…hem tape, wide bias tape folded in half lengthwise and ironed, double fold bias tape. I had some hot pink bias tape already made up so I opted to use that. It’s also shiny…it was very early and somehow I thought it might look nice with that green lacy skirt that Madonna would have proudly worn in the “Holiday” era.

On a positive note, it will be very easy for you to see what I am doing in the pictures. The ones that aren’t blurry anyway.

Prep

So go ahead and cut up the skirt into whatever size apron works for you. I will also be covering how to gather fabric (oh, yes I did) so go ahead and cut it on the wide side if you’re planning on giving that a shot. Oh, whoops…should have warned you about the pink and orange plaid that was coming up. It’s actually a really cool vintage wool that I found at a yard sale and apparently was just a bit too eager to show off.

Press the “apron” in order to make applying the bias tape a breeze. The secret to quality sewing is to iron, iron, iron. It will make the difference between a crappy homemade project and a crisp, professional result. Just be careful not to turn the iron up too high and melt green ribbon onto the plate. If the skirt you have chosen has embellishments, iron the backside of the fabric.

Gathering the Top Edge

With your machine set on the basting stitch (the veeeeerrrrry loooongest one), stitch a straight line about 1/4″ away from the edge of the top of your apron. Be sure to leave a nice long tail of thread and do not backstitch. You always want to sew two stitches close to each other (NOT overlapping at all) just in case one of your thread breaks from your giddiness. These stitches will be easily removed with a seam ripper when the bias tape has been applied so don’t worry about the exact placement.

There will be four tails of thread hanging from the edge of the apron: two on the top and two on the bottom. It doesn’t matter which two you choose to pull as long as they are both on the same side.

Thankfully this is actually one of the good pictures so it should be pretty clear to see what I mean.

Pull the threads and evenly gather the fabric until you reach the desired width for your apron.

Tie the ends of the thread off into a simple knot in order to keep the gathers from liberating themselves. They are very sneaky.

Applying the Bias Tape

With the bias tape folded around the edge of the fabric on one side of the apron, you will want to start your seam about 1/2″ from the top. Sew a couple of stitches and then backstitch to secure the bias tape. This will ensure that the edge of the whole deal doesn’t get sucked down into the undercarriage and cause a big snarl of thread and/or a broken needle. Continue stitching, attaching the bias tape first to one side, continuing across the bottom of the apron, and coming back up the opposite side. Do not attach the bias tape to the top of the apron yet because that is covered in the next step.

Determine the length of the ties for your apron. I like nice long ties so I measured each length at 26 inches. This is in addition to the actual width of the apron (21″), making the the full length of the top bias tape 73 inches.

To easily find the center points, just fold each item in half. Pin the centers together and then continue to pin to each edge. Or just eyeball it and forgo the pins, you daredevil.

Go ahead and sew along the edge of the bias tape, backtacking at the stress points (where the edges meet).

And finally, to clean up your basting stitches simply pick apart a few stitches with the seam ripper. These stitches are so long that they should come out very easily.

And since the trim, the lace, and the hot pink shiny edging just wasn’t enough for me, I also applied a smattering of lovely crocheted flowers all over the apron to embellish it just a bit more. I’m embarrassed to even show the gal from Ireland who makes these. You can also happily purchase your own from her Etsy shop.

And the back:

I’m off to track down some lace fingerless gloves, one large earring, and some ankle boots with a one inch heel. Get into the Groove, yo.

Here is the first version of a wool diaper cover that I made from an old wool sweater.  You know, I really hate making the first version of things.  I know that it’s going to turn out ok but not great, so it feels like a waste of time.  But honestly there is just no better way to figure something out than to have a live version to work with, so the creation of “Version One” is just a part of the process.  Don’t be afraid to fail–if you’re not failing then you’re not taking risks.

So here is my critique so far:

  • Next time I will cut the bias tape on the bias.  Whoops.
  • A tighter gather in the legs and on the back.
  • Thicker wool.
  • Line the inside (behind the snaps) for greater stability.
  • Better snap placement.
  • Coordinating thread for the stitches on the inside of the soaker.

And the parts that I DO like:

  • The bias tape!  (Also made from a repurposed, lightweight wool shirt.)
  • The rayon thread that I used just because it was in the machine…I’ll probably keep that.
  • The shape and size are perfect for Nico.
  • I finally had an excuse to buy a snap tool.
  • Cost of the diaper cover:  less than five dollars.  (The dude is now ready for his FIFTH set of diaper covers at ten months old.  Time for mama to figure out how to make our own!)

So the major challenge with making a wool soaker is to get a good fit without making the cover look totally ghetto.  Our dude is quite a chunker so we have had some pretty major issues with finding the perfect fit for him.  Most diaper covers end up leaving red welts on his fat little thighs and that just won’t do.  Another challenge is finding all wool materials that are not scratchy…nobody wants scratchy wool against their skin, least of all a little baby with the proverbial soft skin.  Test out the wool on a tender part of your skin (belly, under your arm, even your bum if you are so inclined) to make sure that your tot will approve.  I put some scratchy wooly pants on Nico and he sat there picking at them until he started to cry.  Sorry, little man.

Why 100% wool?  The lanolin in the wool (which needs to be added from time to time) makes the fibers absorbent and apparently keeps the soakers from smelling like pee.  From my research so far, you only need to wash the covers when they get hit with some #2 action.  Sounds too good to be true, doesn’t it?  We’re going to be doing some serious experimenting around here and I’ll share my observations as we go.

My hope is to have this pattern/process developed within the next month or two.  Then I’ll happily share it with you all for free and even offer a paper version for sale if you don’t feel like drafting a pattern yourself.  The pattern will be geared toward an intermediate level sewer.

I’m also working on the pattern for the Slim and Trim Diapers that I make out of repurposed flannel sheets (which we love!).  This pattern is easy as pie so it will be appropriate for a beginner level sewer.  I should have those available within a couple of weeks if all goes well.  Again, I’ll give it to you for free here on the blog but if you don’t feel like drafting a pattern a paper version will be available for sale.

They do make a nice pair though, don’t they?

Polyester

I have had a long, long, unrequited love affair with polyester. And I’m talking about the truly wild prints…the more hideous the better. But sadly, we all know how polyester follows the old rule: good from afar, but far from good. It’s horrible to wear. It’s static-y, it starts to smell, it doesn’t breathe. Sigh. It’s just so funky though. And I do mean funky in the good way.

For years (and I mean years) I have been trying to think of an application that just screams out for polyester. I must be living well because last week it finally hit me:

Yep. That’s right. It’s a grocery bag.

And polyester is indeed the perfect medium for this project. It’s light, it’s strong, and after you ball it up and stick it in your pocket it pops back out without a wrinkle in sight. It’s a miracle I tell you.

Not only does my muse work with wool, apparently she is pretty keen on polyester too. And out of gratitude for the idea, the first five people who come visit our booth at the Farmers Market and mention this post on Saturday, July 5th will get one for free. Yup. For free. The market starts at nine, by the way. Just look for the Peace Flags out on the lawn.

So now I just have two things to say:

Game on.

And what am I going to do with these little babies?

So as part of my work of re-purposing as many items as I can think of for the summer market, I have been felting wool sweaters. So much to do with a sweater! By the way, a big thank you to Natalie and Amber at Sacks (one of our local thrift stores) for giving me the sweaters that would otherwise head to the landfill!

So the other day I started cutting and here is what happened:

I was able to cut the scraps of the sweater into little bits and actually stuff the doll with them, so the only waste from the grey sweater was the tag. This brings me to my newest favorite thing to do: felting. Yee! What fun! Instant gratification at its best. After I finished her hair (which was made from some beautiful hand-dyed roving from Snake River Fiberworks available here), I thought I would see if wool fabric would felt too…and it does. So I added a little face:

My favorite part about felting the facial features and the hair is that now the doll is 100% wool (great for kids with dust allergies!!) and totally hand washable. I never really thought I would be a gal who would dig making dolls…until I was faced with a very large (and growing!) pile of felted sweaters. Not to mention a little niece on the way who is kicking in the girly drive…

Sometimes the muse just speaks. My job is to listen. And sew. And felt!